We’ve been receiving a fair amount of feedback that customers are frustrated tying to find a bold, strong brew at Starbucks since the introduction of the milder Pike Place Roast as the everyday coffee. We wrote about the introduction of Pike Place Roast last month.

My expectation when Starbucks first announced Pike Place Roast was that the classic bold, strong brew that customers have identified with Starbucks for years would still be available. Pike Place Roast seemed like a reasonable addition to the everyday drip offering. A milder coffee that would appeal to a segment of the market looking for something with a little less edge. And the strong, bold offering would remain available for the millions of loyal Starbucks customers that would like to see that continue.

We’ve been receiving consistent feedback at the Gourmet Coffee Zone that customers are having a hard time finding Starbucks stores that still serve the stronger coffee. So I visited a Starbucks today to check it out. Sure enough, it’s pretty much only Pike Place Roast. This is a mistake and will drive away loyal Starbucks customers looking for the strong daily coffee fix to which they’ve been accustomed.

Admittedly, the store we visited here in Southern California was certainly busy enough. Business didn’t seem to be suffering with the Pike Place Roast front and center. However, as is usually the case, most of the customers were walking out the door with the standard coffee milk shake fare.

We did noticed the “French Press” option, something we haven’t tried yet at Starbucks. On the menu, below the Pike Place Roast was something called “Share a Coffee” (or something similar). Your choice of any of the Starbucks whole bean coffees prepared in a French press for $3.50.

The coffee press is a Bodum 8-cup model designed for Starbucks, I believe the same model sold in the stores. So roughly two “talls” or about 24 ounces worth of coffee prepared fresh for you while you wait.

It must not be a commonly ordered item. The girl taking care of us seemed a bit flustered, and we had to point to the description on the menu behind her. And when we asked which whole bean coffees we could choose from, she explained “only the French Roast and the Italian Roast”. And I’m reminded I’m in a Starbucks. OK, let’s give it a shot, and we ordered the “French Roast”.

The “French press” takes about 5 minutes to prepare. I noticed they used a timer, which is probably a good idea. In the busy store, with the line practically out the door, it would be easy to lose track of the brewing time with the coffee press. As we watched from our table, the timer went off, and she rushed over to push the plunger. We stepped up to the counter and she handed us the French press along with two nice big ceramic coffee mugs.

We poured our own cups at the table. Unfortunately, it was downhill from there. The aroma in the cup was flat, with the Starbucks burnt roast mostly prominent. The brew was just a tad over-extracted, so it was pushing a little too much bitterness.

It was a nice touch, and could work if done right. We might have enjoyed the Guatemala Antiqua, Sulawesi or Sumatra prepared in the press if the beans were available. As mentioned, the menu did indicate “any of the whole bean coffees”. And I think the stores generally honor this policy.

If you’re not in a hurry, and have the time to wait for a French press preparation, this might be an option if you’re looking for that stronger brew at Starbucks.

But the days of the quick and convenient strong and bold daily drip appear to be gone!

As a lover of great food, the epicurean dining experience at a fine restaurant is one of life’s magnificent pleasures.

In the spirit of great gourmet food, a complete fine dining experience should embrace all aspects of the meal. This includes the skillful selection and preparation of the food, the use of the freshest premium ingredients, the combination of familiar and new flavors that delight the senses, the pairing of great wine that compliments the food, the arrangement of food courses that guide the palette through the meal from beginning to end, a desert course if you’re up for it that finishes a superb meal with a sweet celebration, and perhaps an after dinner drink or liqueur, and ….

So, at the finest gourmet restaurants, what’s up with the coffee?

So much care and attention is focused on all aspects of the food and wine. At the culmination of a fabulous meal, there’s so much opportunity to introduce a truly gourmet coffee experience, but most of the time, it just doesn’t happen.

Let’s start with the espresso drinks. Preparing truly world class espresso, and the associated popular cappuccino and latte drinks is an art. At most fine restaurants, you typically won’t find a skilled and passionate barista at the espresso station. More often, I find restaurants opt for a super automatic espresso machine, maybe include a proper quality grinder with the setup (usually not), train the help to push the buttons, and turn out pretty average espresso results.

Occasionally, I run into a restaurant that pulls an exquisite double espresso, but my experience at most restaurants is usually a disappointment. I’m actually OK with this. Mastering great espresso is difficult, and most restaurants are not going to invest in the baristas, the training and the equipment to pull it off. I understand this and I can live with it.

But the cup of coffee is another story entirely.

Let’s focus on the drink side of the gourmet dining experience for a moment. Fine dining establishments take great pride in their wine lists. And invest lavishly in the wine cellar. They hire a sommelier to coordinate and attend to all aspects of the wine experience.

Imagine that? A dedicated wine professional and connoisseur to insure that the wine experience meets or exceeds every discerning expectation.

When I’m presented with the desert menu, I often see many choices and opportunities for continuing the gourmet experience on the beverage side. There are wine pairings that enhance the desert and pastry offerings. And on the sweeter side, the Sauternes, the Late Harvests, the Dolces, and even the Ports can pair nicely

Or perhaps the after dinner drink is the dessert. The Ports, the Brandies, the Cognac, and even the Single-malts abound. Many choices with full descriptions on the desert menu. And if the menu doesn’t spell it out, the waiter can usually speak to the full after dinner beverage offerings.

So, why not the coffee?

All of the coffee opportunity in the world, and it usually nets out to “coffee” or “decaf”. The coffee is usually a dark French roast. Which is fine, but that’s the roast. There’s so much more opportunity than a dark roast blend of some kind.

Is there any indication of the coffee itself? Ever try and inquire where the coffee beans are from? Or who the roaster is? Huh? Sorry, didn’t mean to catch you off guard. Just curious.

A waiter at the top of his/her game will make sure I hear about the “fresh black truffles we just got in from Northern Italy yesterday”. Or a full rundown on the Quilcene, Malpeque or Kumamoto oysters on the half shell.

As for the coffee? Ummm, it’s really “good” coffee. “From some artisan roaster, I think”. “Hold on, let me find out for you”. Actually, I’d be impressed if I actually got that much information.

The most attention to the coffee detail is typically “let me make sure there’s a fresh pot brewing”. Of what? Oh yeah, a fresh pot of “coffee”. And what coffee would that be? At least you weren’t going to bring me coffee that’s been sitting there for an hour. You weren’t going to do that, were you?

Here’s what I’m after.

There’s a wonderful range of single origins out there, full of dimension, ready to offer a satisfying taste, flavor and aroma experience at the finish of a fine gourmet meal. As I ponder over a desert menu, I would love to compliment my selection with a choice of single origin coffee pairings.

If I see a tempting cheese cake, I’m fine with the dark French roast (whatever that coffee might be). With an apple or pear tartin, perhaps a dark roast Haitian. Or maybe I’m in the mood for a soft-ripened cheese course, a medium roast Indonesian Java would be a nice compliment. A fresh fruit or berry tart, try a medium roast Kenyan.

Tell me about your coffee selections, and include the single origins. Mix it up, and tempt me with a few surprises. I think I would actually fall out of my chair if I saw a menu selection of single origin offerings from Paradise Roasters , Counter Culture Coffee, or Intelligentsia. To be fair, I know there are a few enlightened fine dining establishments out there that serve and care about great coffee. But we’re talking about far and few between.

Or, better yet, publish a simple coffee insert for the desert menu, and feature two or three outstanding single origins each week. Or put up a coffee selection chalk board. Even more charming. Imagine running across a description like “featuring a Guatemala Huehuetenango - San Vicente Estate Bourbon from Paradise Roasters this week …. a classic Huehuetenango, caramel-like cup, notes of citrus, chocolate, brown sugar, with a tropical wisp of passion fruit and guava”.

Now, go ahead and pair that up with something chocolate, maybe a decadent chocolate souffle. Oh baby, now we’re talkin’ …

And if the fine restaurants aren’t sure there’s a consumer demand for this level of coffee indulgence, then show some epicurean leadership. Fine food, wine, and yes - coffee, are all part of the adventure. We want to learn and experience and expand our culinary horizons. That’s why we show up. Go ahead, dazzle us with a special coffee or food/coffee combination that we’ve yet to experience.

And the preparation doesn’t have to be overly complicated, or require a world class barista to get it right. Bring the single-origin to the table in a French press. A little ritual around the cup and the French press will thoroughly delight me and make me feel special. And impress me that your fine restaurant appreciates the coffee dimension. I’ll be thrilled to discover that you share the coffee passion too!

Admittedly, there’s some technique and technicality around insuring a proper and consistent extraction. So be sure to get the grind right for a French press. And if watching over the optimal steep time is a challenge with too many busy tables to attend to, bring me a small digital timer, set it next to the coffee press, and tell me to push the plunger when the four minutes on the timer expires. It’s perfectly reasonable to allow me to participate in the coffee ritual. In fact, I’ll enjoy it!

Hey, if your truly wonderful fine dining establishment is already on-board with the full coffee experience, please sound off. Leave us a comment below. I’ll be sure to come by and visit next time I’m in town. And I bet our readers at the Gourmet Coffee Zone will show up as well.

Give us the full culinary experience. And please don’t forget to pay some attention to the coffee!

Is technology advancement in the coffee industry always good? There are several camps that line up on different sides.

The latest coffee technology advances are immediately appealing to those that line up on the side of “any and all advances in coffee technology must be good“. If you can attach a computer to it, it’s gotta be great!

Then there are the more natural purists that are skeptical and tend to be opposed to coffee technology advancements. This camp’s mantra is “what’s wrong with the manual method, it’s worked great for … “. You can plug in for how long the old fashion method has been in practice.

Of course, more reasonably, there’s a middle ground, taking each situation on a case by case basis. In this more objective view of coffee technology advancements, clearly some are truly advancements, and others are much more novelty than utilitarian or beneficial.

Here are a few coffee technology criteria to consider:

• Does the technology produce better coffee?
• Does the technology create new efficiencies and save money?
• Does the technology solve a difficult problem with a better solution, or does it actually make matters more complicated?
• Does the technology replace a human, attempting to duplicate a process or technique that requires some art, nuance or subtle skill that only a human can accomplish?

Here are a few examples of new applications of technology to coffee. Some are intriguing, but are they truly useful? Others are simply amusing. Look, entertainment value counts for something, right?

Now, here’s a fellow, Oleksiy Pikalo, who has come up with a rather ingenious application of computerized coffee technology. Oleksiy has modified a computer controlled robotic plotter stylus to produce programmable patterns on the surface of a cup of latte. He substitutes an edible chocolate syrup for the plotter ink, so you can drink your latte design after you’re done admiring the art work.

See the following demonstration of his device, plotting the Starbucks logo pattern on the surface of a latte. OK, definitely an example of technical creativity, but probably not too practical, this one falls under the category of “entertainment”.

Computerized Latte Art - Starbucks logo on the surface of a latte.

OK, looking for your next do-it-yourself computer project? For the coffee geek at heart, this PC modification grinds the coffee, tamps, produces a shot of espresso, and ejects the coffee puck. Hmmm, isn’t this a homemade super automatic espresso machine. Probably don’t want to know the price. But clever, ingenious and cute. This one also falls under the category of “coffee technology entertainment”.

No ordinary PC modification.

Next, consider a new feat of coffee engineering, a “coffee tasting machine developed by scientists at the Nestle Research Center in Switzerland“. This machine may be quite impressive, but I remain skeptical of a device that can mechanically replace the sophisticated human skill of “coffee tasting”. Sensory pattern recognition is a complex human process, with the added level of “cognitive decisioning” by the human brain that is difficult to mimic with a computer. Computer scientists have been chasing the “artificial intelligence” holy grail for years. OK, maybe I’m just being stubborn when it comes to replacing people with computers.

And then there’s the Clover. We’ve been talking about the Clover brewing machine in a number of posts. See “Starbucks Acquires Clover Manufacturer, Should Have Seen It Coming” and “Starbucks Tests the Clover in Several Stores“. It’s an $11,000 automated brewing system designed to produce “custom single cup brews” that maximize the best extractions. The Clover has been a feature at a number of high-end specialty coffee houses for the last few years.

Now that Starbucks has acquired the company, the ability for specialty coffee houses to differentiate themselves has been diminished somewhat, at least in the eyes of some of the coffee house owners. In the end, it’s very possible that the old standby pour-over brew bar technology can do just as good a job in the hands of a skillful barista. At several hundred dollars for a quality brew bar, that’s easily a cost savings of $10,000. And the truth is, the Clover doesn’t eliminate the need for barista skill by any means.

Stay tuned, there’s always new coffee technology emerging. We look forward to bringing you more commentary and perspective on coffee technology.

Starbucks introduced Pike Place Roast last week. According to the company’s press release, Pike Place Roast is the result of significant customer input with the following objectives:

• “Starbucks newest, everyday brew”
• “Signature bold flavor with a smooth finish balanced by soft acidity and subtle, rich nutty flavor”
• Embracing “new quality standards for freshness including freshly roasted, hand-scooped, freshly ground and brewed with shorter hold times”.
• “Will be the first coffee to bear the new mark symbolizing Starbucks ongoing commitment to environmental sustainability through an expanded relationship with Conservation International (CI)”
• Available in all stores

Many suggest that the new Pike Place Roast offering is an attempt to address the common criticism that Starbucks coffee is too strong and burnt tasting. The familiar, bold, over-roasted style has been the signature profile that many customers identify as Starbucks coffee. Pike Place Roast may very well be an attempt to reach a different segment of the market that prefers a more toned down coffee.

As expected, just about any move that Starbucks makes today stirs up controversy and criticism. Some happy and loyal customers complain that Starbucks is selling out with this milder coffee profile. So you hear comments like “Starbucks is now trying to be more like Dunkin’ Donuts”.

If you listen to the noise level, Starbucks can never win. Either the standard coffee profile is too strong and bold, or it’s too meek and mild. In either case, there’s a contingent out there that is always eager to voice their opinion that “Starbucks sucks”.

Starbucks is under increasing competitive pressure today in the marketplace and they have a number of initiatives underway to improve quality and customer satisfaction. Good for CEO, Howard Schultz, for doing something about it. You may not agree with the change, but at least Starbucks is making a move. Nothing will improve without taking some action.

Bottom line, people just don’t like change. They like to stay in their comfort zone, where everything is easy to recognize and familiar. And if there’s the slightest nudge or push out of that comfort zone, it’s immediate grounds for whining and groaning.

To these folks, I suggest that it’s OK to embrace a little adventure and curiosity. Life is more interesting with a little variety.

For example, food is a great adventure. Lots of people routinely enjoy many different styles of food and cuisine. And the opportunity to try something new and different is exciting. Why should coffee be any different for the curious who seek a little adventure in life?

By the way, are you stuck on one and only one coffee? If so, I recommend our “coffee tasting course” now underway.

With Pike Place Roast, you now have more choices. You can still order your strong, bold, heavy roasted profile if that’s your preference. Starbucks continues to have that brew ready and available for you. And if you might like a more mild, less edgy coffee, you now have a great option with Pike Place Roast.

Personally, I enjoy many varieties of coffee. I find the differences between an East African and a Central American coffee satisfying and interesting to explore. And for me, a great Indonesian Sumatra or Sulawesi is always a special coffee experience.

And the variety goes for the roast level too. The roast is an important consideration to bring out the best qualities of a particular coffee. Hey, I like a coffee as strong and bold as you can get. But, for many coffees, I much prefer a lighter or medium roast that doesn’t overpower the more subtle characteristics of the coffee. With other coffees, for the right blend or single-origin, a darker Italian or darkest French roast with a dominant smoky or toasted quality is the only way to go.

I had a chance to stop in last week and try a cup of Pike Place Roast at my local Starbucks. Nice cup of coffee, actually. This is definitely not the classic Starbucks over-roasted, in your face profile. Definitely nothing burnt tasting about it.

I found the acidity a little more bright and lively than “soft acidity” as the press release suggests. Smooth, not overdone, but sufficiently perks up the palette. A nice body and pleasant mouthfeel. And a slightly nutty taste with soft fruit tones. This is clearly not a bland, mediocre coffee as some have complained. Different than the typical bold dark-roast at Starbucks that you might be accustomed to? Yes. But bland, not at all.

I did find it interesting that Starbucks brought back a version of the original logo for the introduction of Pike Place Roast, along with the slogan “Roasting coffee since 1971. The best cup then. The best cup now”.

The cup has the sleeve attached with the brown colored logo, similar to the cigar band motif of the original logo from the 1970’s. With a few differences. The phrase around the perimeter of the old logo was “Starbucks - Coffee - Tea - Spices”. The new logo retains the familiar “Starbucks - Fresh Roasted Coffee”.

And another more subtle difference. On the new image, the siren maiden’s breasts are covered by her flowing curls of hair. On the original logo, she was bare-breasted. Starbucks updated the logo to the more familiar green colored motif in the 1990’s, partly to address some controversy and customer discomfort with the original logo.

And a tip about the name. You might be tempted to ask for a Pike’s Place Roast. It’s a common mistake to attach the ’s to Pike in the possessive form. But you’re sure to expose your lack of familiarity with Pike Place Market, the famous Seattle public market on nine acres for over a hundred years. Pike Place Market is the home of the very first Starbucks store, and the namesake for the newest Starbucks coffee blend.

So stop by a Starbucks and try a Pike Place Roast. You might enjoy something a little different from Starbucks.

At the Gourmet Coffee Zone, we offer ongoing coffee education across a variety of gourmet coffee subjects. Consider this a fun version of online coffee school.

Our current “Coffee Tasting eCourse” is now underway. This eCourse is a step-by-step coffee tasting education delivered by email to our Gourmet Coffee Zone newsletter subscribers.

Over the course of the next several weeks subscribers will be receiving coffee tasting lessons covering the following subjects:

1. Why develop your coffee tasting palette?
   
2. The fundamentals of coffee tasting characteristics.
   
3. Coffee tasting vocabulary.
4. Coffee origins and the many different taste and flavor qualities of different coffees from the finest growing regions around the world.
5. Coffee roasting and the different roast levels and roast characteristics.
6. Coffee tasting defects and taints.
7. We also include a basic brewing tutorial, specifically designed for tasting and sampling coffee.
8. Then we put it all together and walk through applying everything you’ve learned by actually tasting three or four specific coffees that we’ll recommend to you.

If you would like to participate in the “Coffee Tasting eCourse”, sign up for our Gourmet Coffee Zone newsletter today.

For our subscribers participating in the coffee tasting course, the comments to this blog post serve as a interactive area to post questions, share coffee tasting experiences, and learn from the community.

Taste some great coffee today!

Mark Harris

If you live in the US and you haven’t seen the latest McDonald’s Iced Coffee commercials on TV, its possible it hasn’t hit your market yet. Here in Southern California, a marketing campaign blitz is underway. See Premium Roast Iced Coffee at a Southern California McDonald’s …

If you’ve managed to miss the McDonald’s ad, have a look …

To be honest, McDonald’s is probably the last place I’m inclined to go for coffee, but I have to tell you, this marketing campaign strikes me as brilliant.

As part of a broader initiative to go further up-scale with gourmet coffee, McDonald’s introduced the McCafe stores over four years ago in the Australian market.

In the US market, McDonald’s began testing premium coffee and espresso-based drinks in approximately 800 stores over a year ago and has plans to expand the premium coffee products to nearly 14,000 US based stores across the country.

While the push to compete in the premium coffee market may seem like an inappropriate fit for McDonald’s, offering iced coffee is a no-brainer. According to the National Coffee Association, over 41 million Americans switch to iced coffee during the warmer months of the year. And for those who would prefer the more appealing ambiance of a Starbucks store over a McDonald’s, an iced coffee is more often a hit-and-run order-on-the-go purchase.

Which brings me to these latest iced coffee commercials on TV. Perfectly executed, in my opinion. Short and sweet, the ads capture the precise essence and appeal of the new iced coffee offering.

It’s only a 30 second spot, but notice a few clever techniques. The only branding is the logo on the cup, and the brief splash at the very end. There’s no shot or view of the inside or outside of the store, the line of customers, or the standard McDonald’s food counter. Just a refreshing iced coffee, on the go, from the frame of reference of the customer holding the iced coffee in her hand as she’s walking along the sidewalk, taking in the spring/summer scenery outdoors.

The music also strikes me as equally clever. A cheerful, appealing Latin sounding theme, sung by a female vocalist with a cool, sultry pleasing sound, and no one seems able to understand the lyrics. Clearly not English, maybe Portuguese, a-la some Brazilian samba music style, but it’s immediately catchy and deliberately drives the buzz marketing with people clamoring to decipher the words she’s singing.

The whole thing is appealing enough, without getting on your nerves, to sustain the relentless barrage of coverage underway. Not exactly the television version of the 2-second iced-coffee nano-ads (see Michael Stelzner’s blog) that popped up over the radio last year. These recent McDonald’s TV commercials are short bursts, delivered over and over again, sometimes twice within one or two minutes of each other. I haven’t timed the different versions with a stop-watch, but I’m pretty sure I’ve seen some short 10-15 second versions, almost a sound-byte, playing 5 or 6 times within a 15 minute time frame. But they don’t seem to get on your nerves.

So, now I’m curious, and I’ll have to visit a McDonald’s soon to try one of the new iced coffees. From what I’m hearing, the feedback has been generally positive. People are saying the iced coffee drinks at McDonald’s are pretty good!

And the price is right. Looks like McDonald’s Iced Coffee may give Starbucks a run for the money. Available in five flavors, Hazelnut, Vanilla, Caramel, Sugar-Free Vanilla and Regular. As the ad says, “a large cup of cool, creamy bliss for just $1.79″ ….

And, if someone can translate the lyrics in the commercial, by all means, post a comment and solve the mystery … buh, duh, buh, buh, bao

We recently took a California road trip and headed up to Napa and Sonoma for an enjoyable weekend of Russian River Barrel Tasting - wine futures. Along the way, we took the opportunity to visit several outstanding coffee houses.

Next stop, Lulu’s at the Octagon in Santa Cruz, CA.

And I apologize for the poor photographs. I promise to work on my photography.

Lulu’s at the Octagon - Artisan Roasted Coffees
18 Cooper St
Santa Cruz, CA 95060
(831) 429-5858

As the name suggests, this is a unique example of local 19th century architecture, a small brick structure actually in the shape of an octagon.

A view of the front of the store, and an outdoor patio seating area to enjoy when the weather is nice.

A large skylight at the top of the building provides a soothing, natural lighting on the inside. A beautiful cherry wood bench lines the perimeter of the interior and the seating area includes about a dozen small tables for two. An impressive, well equipped espresso bar and coffee preparation counter occupies the center of the floor.

We arrived around 5:30 pm on a weekend. The place was quite busy, and as you can see from my blurry photograph of the interior, every seat was inhabited by preoccupied, computer toting, coffee sipping customers. It appears that Lulu’s is a popular hang-out for students from the nearby colleges, UC Santa Cruz and Cabrillo College. And Lulu’s at the Octagon has them covered with free Wi-Fi.

Lulu’s at the Octagon is the creation of owner and coffee entrepreneur, Manthri Srinath, who also owns Lulu Carpenters nearby in Santa Cruz, and the Coffee Cat in Scotts Valley. Manthri Srinath clearly has the passion for great coffee and it shows. See “Santa Cruz coffee entrepreneur Manthri Srinath on the perfect cup“.

At the Coffee Cat location, they do all of their own custom hand-crafted coffee roasting for all three stores.

We would have liked to spend more time with the baristas and find out more about Lulu’s, but with the busy flow of customers, we didn’t want to interfere and get in the way. So we got right to the most important business at hand and ordered up.

I started off with an espresso, of course!

I had a choice of two custom espresso blends, a more medium roast, and a darker roast. Aaron, the barista, recommended their espresso blend with a more medium roast for a subtler taste experience. Unfortunately, the grinder for those beans wasn’t working properly. So I went with their standard classic Espresso blend with a darker roast level.

I appreciated the tip, a good indication that the baristas know what they’re doing. If you can’t get the grind right, don’t bother. And, they were setup with separate grinders, another good sign, which suggests to me that they keep the grind properly and specifically adjusted for the two different espresso beans. This also prevents contaminating the different coffees grinds with one another, which tends to happen if you grind all of your beans through one grinder.

OK, it was time to pull my espresso from the La Marzocco Mistral espresso machine. La Marzocco sets a standard with innovative design, double boilers, PID (proportional, integrative, derivative) technology for maximum temperature stability, and visible saturated brew groups. This modern and trendy, futuristic looking espresso machine, in prominent view as you walk in the front door, always makes a bold statement at any espresso bar.

From my vantage point, with a view a little off to the side, I was able to observe a perfect reddish brown, syrupy mouse tail as my espresso was pouring into the cup. And the dark tan rich crema just kept flowing. My anticipation was building.

Let me tell you, that was a terrific espresso. Rich and smooth, slightly sweet, and a little smoke. Great balance, with a lingering finish that wouldn’t quit. Now, that’s what I’m talking about. If you’re not sure what a great espresso should taste like, go try an espresso at Lulu’s at the Octagon.

Next, we sampled three single origins, brewed on the Clover. At the Gourmet Coffee Zone, we’ve been talking about the Clover quite a bit lately. For more information about this innovative brewing system, see our article, Starbucks tests the Clover in Stores. Incidentally, Starbucks just recently acquired the Coffee Equipment Co, the manufacture of the Clover brewing machine.

OK, back to the coffee tasting.

First, a Sumatra Mandheling. This was a pretty typical Sumatran, rich body, lower toned acidity, sweet with some floral tones and a detectable chocolate finish. A truly great coffee with character, and one of my favorites.

Next, a Papua New Guinea. Coffees from this island in Indonesia can exhibit a fairly broad range of characteristics in the cup. The plantation grown coffees on the island are typically wet-processed, consistent and cleaner, perhaps more similarities to the clean coffees of Central America. Other areas in Papua New Guinea produce coffee using dry processing, and these are more typical of some of the exotic Indonesian coffee characteristics.

Not sure what to expect, the Papua New Guinea at Lulu’s had some earthy notes, an expected lower acidity, and some clear and present spice tones. I suspected this might be one of the dry-processed coffees, but couldn’t be sure. Definitely an interesting and flavorful cup.

The Ethiopian Harrar was a special treat. I don’t find too many coffee houses offering up this coffee origin. A very bright and lively coffee, with a fairly high acidity level, typical of the Ethiopian coffees. And the most dramatic and pronounced fruit characteristics of just about any coffee you will find. If you taste for it, you can often detect a hint of blueberry fruit in a good Harrar. And a brew coming off the Clover has a good chance of capturing this blueberry characteristic in the cup.

So, did my Harrar at Lulu’s offer up that most unique blueberry fruit? Hmmm, not sure I was able to find the blueberry, but the distinctive dried fruit was there. A delicious cup, nonetheless.

We’ve had the opportunity to enjoy coffees brewed with the Clover at four or five specialty coffee houses. My conclusion about the Clover. While great results consistently come off the Clover, I think it’s an exaggeration to say it produces a markedly superior brew unlike anything you’ve ever experienced before. I do tend to see this over-hyped praise about the Clover.

Rather, what does set the Clover apart is the consistent ability to repeat the optimal extraction for many different coffees, virtually for each and every custom-brewed cup. The Clover machine provides an automated way to dial-in and control the four important variables; water temperature, steep/brew time, fine/course grind level, and ratio of coffee to water, and hit the right parameters for each coffee consistently, each and every time.

This is ideal for a commercial coffee establishment that wants to offer custom-brewed cup-at-a-time coffee, perfect for bringing out the best taste and flavor results for the many unique single-origins.

Keep in mind, if you are careful, and pay attention to the four brewing variables, you can produce an optimal extraction with a French press as well. It may be more difficult to reach the same consistent results each and every time with a coffee press, but a properly extracted brew from a French press will approach a properly extracted brew from a Clover.

However, a Clover can usually achieve the same results in under 90 seconds, where a French press is typically four minutes or more to complete a brew cycle. And, a French press is generally geared for brewing 3 to 4 cups at a time. Trying to brew custom single cups of coffee in a busy commercial coffee store environment with a French press will create a bottleneck and longer wait time for the customers, and is not nearly as practical and efficient as a Clover.

We definitely enjoyed our coffee experience at this distinguished coffee house. If you happen to be in the area, be sure and stop by Lulu’s at the Octagon in Santa Cruz for some great coffee.

Starbucks announced last week they are acquiring ‘The Coffee Equipment Co’, manufacturer of the Clover brewing machine. See Seattle PI article “Starbucks deal ‘dream come true’ for manufacture of coffee maker“.

We’ve been talking about the Clover brewing machine quite a bit lately. See “Starbucks Tests the Clover in Several Stores” for more detailed information about the Clover brewing system.

Starbucks has been testing the Clover in several stores for the last few months. So, pending a successful outcome of the limited Clover testing, it only makes good business sense that Starbucks would acquire the manufacturer. Evidently, the test phase indicated good results.

Starbucks CEO, Howard Schultz, said they plan to put the Clover machine into all but the smallest stores. The machine is not inexpensive, a single unit sells for around $11,000. Let’s see, Starbucks has about 7100 stores in the US, and over 15,000 stores world wide. Let’s be conservative and say that they will put a Clover in 5,000 stores. Without acquiring the company, let’s say Starbucks were able to negotiate a significant volume discount and purchase the machine for $5000 per unit. That’s a $25 million purchase order right there.

The initial investment raised to launch ‘The Coffee Equipment Co” in 2004 was around $1 million. The small 11 person operation publishes that they have sold the machine to between 200 and 300 independent coffee houses in the US and Canada. Some stores have purchased two machines, so let’s again be conservative and speculate that the company has sold about 1,000 machines to date. At the current price of $11,000/unit, that would be about $11 million in sales over the last 5 years.

Hey, my numbers could be way off, but any way you cut it, the Starbucks purchase order alone would easily exceed the annual revenue of the company by a wide margin. And most companies acquired in a transaction like this are valued at some multiple of annual revenue or gross sales.

The other consideration for a volume order this size is the necessary financing that ‘The Coffee Equipment Co’ would have to secure just to scale up the manufacturing capacity. So, it only makes sense that Starbucks has acquired the company.

And good for Zander Nosler who co-founded ‘The Coffee Equipment Co’. I’m sure a very nice pop for him and the others with equity positions, as well as the private shareholders.

I’ve had the opportunity to try a cup off the Clover at four or five different independent coffee houses. The brewing system definitely produces a good result in the cup. Not necessarily dramatically better than what you might be able to achieve with a proper French press extraction, but consistently good results.

The real benefit with the Clover, in my opinion, is the ability to dial in the right parameters to achieve the same consistent result time after time for each custom brewed cup of coffee. And do this in a busy commercial environment where waiting for a 5 to 6 minute brew cycle with a French press or drip brew bar would be too inefficient. The Clover can typically complete a predictable full extraction custom brew in less than 90 seconds.

The acquisition, while probably a good thing for Starbucks, may be a disappointment for other coffee aficionados and independent coffee houses. The independent specialty coffee retailers, the initial target for the Clover machine, have been successful in differentiating a premium offering by offering coffee brewed with a Clover. And at a fairly hefty investment for the small store at $11,000 per unit. From what I can tell, the Clover has been a successful drawing card.

I’m sure these independent store owners would like to maintain this edge, and that will probably change somewhat once the Clover is brewing coffee at most of the Starbucks stores.

For Schultz, he would like to shift the edge and distinction to Starbucks, so he bought the company. However, although consistent with an ongoing initiative to upgrade the coffee experience at Starbucks, I’m not sure the Clover makes complete sense. The real distinction of brewing with the Clover is the ability to consistently bring out the full flavor and subtle taste characteristics from premium coffee beans, especially the interesting single origins such as a Sumatra Mandheling or an Ethiopian Harrar.

I just don’t see Starbucks in this end of the specialty market, at least not presently. But maybe that’s where Starbucks is headed? Today, I’m not convinced that the typical Starbucks customer who comes in for a cup of drip is interested in more than the one or two batch brew offerings that Starbucks prepares.

Hey, but then I don’t run the company either.

The good news, for interested coffee enthusiasts out there that have been waiting to see what the Clover is all about, your chance seems to be coming soon at a local Starbucks near you!

I ran across this interesting post on “The Coffee Shop” today about the benefits of using decaffeinated coffee. I learned something new that I wasn’t aware of … scientists have discovered a “naturally decaffeinated” species of coffee plant growing in Brazil. An amazing discovery.

For many coffee lovers, the stimulant effects of caffeine are intolerable. The only viable solution, other than avoiding coffee entirely, is decaffeinated coffee. Fortunately, there are many excellent varieties of premium coffees available in decaffeinated form. For the most part, the decaf versions are quite good, and taste very similar to their caffeinated counterparts.

However, a bit bothersome to some folks, the decaffeination process involves various chemical processes that generate concern. I get questions from readers all the time concerning the safety of decaffeinated coffee. Again, the good news is the current commercial decaffeination methods are quite safe, and are approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). To be accurate, the Swiss Water method does not actually expose the coffee beans to any chemicals, and is the only decaf process that is certified organic.

Nonetheless, a species of coffee that actually produces naturally decaffeinated coffee beans is remarkable, and will likely open up new markets for coffee lovers and consumers looking for a natural decaf solution.

Scientists in Brazil made this discovery in 2004, so this may not be immediately ground breaking news. See this article Natural Decaf Coffee Discovered by Brazilian Scientists. The article points out that the discovery is a species of “Coffea Arabica“, the most widely grown coffee around the world, which significantly raises the possibility for cross breeding the decaf characteristics of the newly discovered coffee plant.

Last weekend, we took the drive up from Southern California to Napa and Sonoma in Northern California for Russian River Wine Barrel tasting - wine tasting futures. So what does this have to do with coffee?

Well, we followed Highway 101 all the way up. Not quite the spectacular scenery as Pacific Coast Highway 1, but a beautiful drive this time of year. And along the way, we took the time to stop at a few coffee houses. Hey, I love the wine, but a few stops at a couple of great coffee houses was the highpoint of the weekend for me.

As part of our ongoing series to spotlight the emerging and growing specialty coffee culture, what a great opportunity to start in our own backyard with some of the finest specialty coffee houses and coffee roasteries that California has to offer.

This road trip was also an opportunity to track down a few coffee houses brewing with the Clover. We’ve been talking about this the past few weeks and have been looking forward to sampling some great coffee brew and finding out first hand what the Clover can do.

With the coffee culture preeminence so clearly defined in the Pacific Northwest, and the epicurean preference for fine food and fine wine in California, you might expect a more established California coffee culture, with artisan roasters and truly wonderful coffee houses abounding everywhere.

Not quite the case, but we’re getting better. Northern California has led the charge ahead of Southern California, but we’re starting to see the emergence of more interesting specialty coffee houses and boutique roasters springing up in Southern California as well. Which means one thing. The consumer interest and demand for great coffee is growing. And that’s what we like to see at the Gourmet Coffee Zone!

Back to the road trip, our first stop, Joe Momma’s Coffee in Avila Beach, CA.

Joe Momma’s Coffee
310 Front Street
Avila Beach, CA 93424
(805) 627-1500

Avila Beach is a beautiful beach side community tucked in between Pismo Beach and San Luis Obispo. And the community is lucky to have a great coffee house like Joe Momma’s Coffee.

We arrived around 10:30 am Friday morning, and enjoyed a very pleasant visit and some great coffee. The store was comfortably busy, with several contented locals relaxing on the sidewalk seating out front, sipping coffee while enjoying the ocean breeze and view of the bay. Plenty of comfortable and inviting space up on the second level with a few more happy coffee customers either visiting with friends or working away at their computers.

I’m sure it’s not unusual at all to find students from Cal Poly State University, only a few miles up the road in San Luis Obispo, find their way down to Avila Beach and book some time at this appealing coffee house.

Joe Momma’s Coffee opened for business about ten months ago, mid summer 2007. They embrace direct trade (a notch above fair trade) and include a selection of organic coffees and teas on the menu. Also affiliated with the business is an organic spa and a natural clothing store.

Their motto is “Honest Coffee * Worthy Views”. Smart and to the point, it is about great coffee, with a sensible commitment to environmentally and socially conscious values. Great coffee is about passion. And these folks have the passion.

In a more literal sense, the “worthy views” may also apply to the spectacular ocean view out the front window of the store.

How’s that for a serene and relaxing view while you enjoy a fine cup of fresh roasted coffee, or a superbly crafted latte?

We met Jonathan Withers, barista and store manager. Jonathan was gracious enough to spend some time with us in between tending to the customers’ drink orders. Jonathan, along with a great team of folks give this place a very friendly vibe. They love coffee, they know coffee, and they’re eager to provide a great coffee experience for the customer.

Serving single origins and blends from two great specialty roasters, Intelligentsia and Ritual, this is serious coffee. Intelligentsia follows a simple philosophy, “buy, roast and serve the finest coffees available”. Intelligentsia selects and roasts stellar coffee with a respectable commitment to the farmers. As mentioned, it’s obvious that Joe Momma’s Coffee shares this same feeling.

A view of the menu and the pastry counter as you step into the store. The store has a clean, stylish feel and the decor speaks with a compliment of pleasing bold colors (just like the coffee).

I was anxious to sample my first coffee brew from a Clover. But first, a shot of espresso to get warmed up. Black Cat, of course. Intelligentsia’s signature espresso blend.

Jonathan pulled a shot at the La Marzocco FB/80, prominently featured right up front. I enjoy an espresso bar setup where you can watch and engage with the barista.

And a respectable shot of Black Cat espresso indeed. Nice, full syrupy body, hints of caramel, fruit tones, with a lingering dark chocolate finish. Intelligentsia Black Cat is always a favorite of mine.

Next, a few cups off the Clover brewing system. See this previous Clover writeup for more details and background.

I went with two Intelligentsia single origins, a Kenya Kangocho lot, and the Guatemala El Cuervo.

The Kenya starts with a more intense aroma, with hints of lemon citrus and floral tones, and a sweetness throughout.

The Guatemala El Cuervo is produced from coffee grown in the HueHuetenango region of northwestern Guatemala, known for rich soil and ideal coffee growing conditions. This is the classic bourbon cultivar (pronounced bore-bone) common in various growing regions of Central America. Nice balanced acidity with a brightness, fruit traces of apples and berries, creamy mouthfeel, sweet with a chocolate finish.

The results in the cup for both coffees were superb coming off the Clover.

There’s an optimal extraction that you’re after to bring out the full qualities of the coffee in the cup. Under extracted, and you have a weaker cup, that doesn’t reach the full potential of flavor, body, and aroma, including the more subtle characteristics that may be present. Over extracted, and you start to introduce flavor defects including the bitters that tend to eclipse the best and most pleasing aspects of the flavor profile.

The variables to hit the optimum extraction window are water temperature, fineness/coarseness of the grind, ratio of ground coffee to water, and brewing or steep time. You can work with all of these parameters using a simple coffee press. But with a French press, it’s not easy to precisely control water temperature, and you can easily under or over extract missing the optimum steep time. And a coffee press usually takes about four minutes to brew, not to mention the cleanup to contend with afterwards.

Think of the Clover as a very expensive automated French press that enables precise and repeatable control of the four variables - water temperature, grind, coffee/water ratio, and brew time. The Clover is faster than a French press, and typical settings can produce a finished cup in under 90 seconds. The objective is to quickly and precisely brew a single custom cup, hitting the optimum extraction window each and every time.

As Jonathan explained to me, the Clover doesn’t arrive at the optimal settings automatically. Lot’s of testing and trial and error is necessary in order to arrive at the preferred settings that deliver the results you’re after. It’s a fair amount of work to line up a full set of parameters for the various coffees that a store may want to brew. Even with the Clover, you’re relying on the skill and tasting experience of the barista to arrive at the optimal results.

And just for comparison, Jonathan let me sample a defect cup where the brew time was taken a mere 4 seconds past the preferred extraction threshold. The cup was detectably bitter. Only 4 seconds too long. Surprising, actually.

Wrapping up, we had to try a latte. If you’re a latte fan, they don’t come any better than this. The organic milk really does taste better, with a special rich feel and flavor. And a proper drink is not complete without the latte art on the top. Nicely done!

If you’re in the area, make it a point to stop by Joe Momma’s Coffee for a visit. It’s a perfect stopping point midway between Los Angeles and San Francisco if you’re making the drive along the 101. If you’re a local, you are fortunate to have this special coffee house nearby.

Next time we head up north, we’ll most definitely be paying another visit.

Next installment, a review of Lulu’s At The Octagon in Santa Cruz, California.